How to Lift and Store Ranunculus Corms in South Africa

Ranunculus season rarely ends with a dramatic announcement.

The flowers become smaller, the stems slow down and the foliage begins losing the fresh green energy it carried through winter and spring. It can look untidy, but this slow decline is not a crop failing. It is the plant completing its growing cycle and transferring energy back into the corm for its next season.

At Femme Pétale Flower Farm in Pretoria East, our ranunculus grow through the cooler months before finishing as the spring temperatures rise. Because we move into a hot, summer-rainfall season, I prefer to lift valuable corms rather than leave them sitting in warm, wet soil.

Knowing when and how to lift ranunculus corms can make the difference between strong planting material for next season and a bag of dry claws with no labels and several unanswered questions.

This guide explains how I recognise the end of the season, lift without damaging the corms, dry and sort them, and store them in labelled bags in the shed until it is time to grow again.

What are ranunculus corms?

Ranunculus are commonly described as being grown from bulbs, but the dry, claw-shaped structures we plant are corms.

The corm stores the energy the plant needs to begin its next growing cycle. Once soaked and planted in suitable cool conditions, it develops roots and shoots and eventually produces the layered flowers we love.

During the growing season, a healthy original corm may develop a larger cluster of new storage structures. These can look quite different from the neat, dry corm originally planted.

When lifting them, do not expect every corm to look exactly like the imported, commercially cleaned ones that arrived in a packet.

When does ranunculus season end in South Africa?

Ranunculus are cool-season flowers. The exact finishing time depends on your region, planting date, variety, weather and growing conditions.

In Pretoria, the plants generally begin declining as temperatures rise during spring. A cooler, protected garden may hold flowers longer than a warm, exposed bed.

Signs that the season is finishing include:

• Fewer new flowering stems
• Shorter or weaker stems
• Smaller flowers
• Increasing yellowing of the lower leaves
• Foliage beginning to collapse
• Slower water use
• Plants no longer producing healthy new growth
• Warm weather arriving consistently

One yellow leaf does not mean the entire crop is ready to lift. Look at the plant as a whole and watch for a natural, general decline.

Allow the foliage to yellow naturally

Once the best flowers are finished, it is tempting to clear the bed immediately.

Try not to remove healthy green foliage too early.

The leaves are still photosynthesising and helping the plant build and replenish the corm below the soil. This stored energy supports dormancy and the next growing cycle.

Allow the foliage to yellow and die back naturally wherever conditions make this possible.

You can remove:

• Spent flower stems
• Diseased or badly damaged foliage
• Material that is rotting
• Leaves creating a serious airflow problem

Leave healthy green foliage attached until it has largely yellowed and begun to dry.

When should you reduce watering?

As flowering slows and the foliage begins yellowing, gradually reduce watering.

The aim is to allow the plant to enter dormancy and the soil to become workable for lifting. You do not want to keep forcing fresh growth, but you also do not need to shock a fully green plant by suddenly abandoning it during hot weather.

Use the plant and soil as your guide.

Begin reducing water when:

• Flower production has largely finished
• The plant is naturally losing vigour
• Foliage is yellowing
• The soil remains wet for longer
• The plant is using less moisture

Stop routine watering as the foliage dies back and before lifting, provided the plants are not being exposed to severe stress while still actively green.

If heavy rain is forecast, lifting ready corms before the soil becomes saturated may be sensible. Wet, sticky soil is harder to remove and increases the risk of damaging the corm clusters.

Why lifting too early can weaken ranunculus corms

Green foliage is still doing important work.

If you lift a ranunculus plant while it is actively growing and remove all its green leaves, you interrupt the process of replenishing the corm.

This may result in:

• Smaller corms
• Poorly matured corms
• Reduced stored energy
• More difficult storage
• Weaker growth during the following season
• Fewer viable corms worth keeping

There are occasions when lifting early is necessary, such as disease, waterlogging, urgent bed preparation or serious heat damage. But if the plant is healthy, allowing it to finish naturally gives the corm the best opportunity to mature.

Untidy foliage is sometimes simply next season being prepared beneath the soil.

When are ranunculus corms ready to lift?

The corms are generally ready when:

• Most of the foliage has yellowed or browned
• The stems are drying and collapsing
• Flowering has finished
• The plant is no longer producing active new growth
• Watering has been reduced
• The soil is dry enough to crumble away without sticking heavily

If the foliage has completely disappeared, locating every corm becomes more difficult. Mark the rows or varieties before the plants vanish.

Labels have a mysterious ability to disappear at exactly the point when every underground corm begins looking related.

What you will need

Prepare your equipment before you begin:

• A garden fork or narrow digging fork
• A small hand fork or trowel
• Clean secateurs
• Shallow crates or trays
• Separate containers for each variety
• Permanent labels
• A permanent marker or pencil
• Gloves
• A soft brush
• A dry, protected area with airflow
• Breathable paper, mesh or fabric storage bags
• Hooks or shelving in a cool, dry shed

If you grow several varieties, work with one clearly marked section at a time.

Step 01 / Identification Label before lifting

Do not begin by lifting five beds and promising yourself that you will remember what came from where.

Confirm the label before disturbing the plant.

Write the variety name on:

• The collection crate
• A durable label inside the crate
• The final storage bag
• Your growing or inventory notes

If you are unsure of the variety, label it as unknown rather than assigning it a confident but fictional identity.

You may also record:

• Colour
• Series or type
• Bed number
• Planting date
• Harvest performance
• Stem length
• Disease or pest observations
• Whether you want to grow it again

Step 02 / Preparation Cut back the finished foliage

Once the foliage has died back, trim it down while leaving a short section attached.

This gives you a visible marker and something to guide your lifting, but do not use the stems to pull the corms from the ground.

Remove clearly diseased foliage from the growing area rather than adding it to storage or placing questionable material into a cool compost pile.

Clean your secateurs between suspect plants or varieties.

Step 03 / Loosening Loosen the soil around the plant

Insert your fork into the soil a comfortable distance away from the crown.

The corm cluster may be wider than expected. Starting too close can pierce or slice through the claws.

Work around the plant gradually:

1. Insert the fork away from the crown.
2. Loosen the soil without immediately levering upward.
3. Move around the plant if necessary.
4. Work beneath the root zone.
5. Lift the soil and corm cluster together.
6. Support the cluster with your hand as it emerges.

Never pull the plant out by its stems. The cluster can break apart and valuable corms may remain in the ground.

Step 04 / Lifting Lift without damaging the claws

Freshly lifted ranunculus corms can be more fragile than the hard, dry claws you planted.

Handle them by supporting the complete cluster rather than gripping and pulling individual sections.

If the soil is loose, gently crumble it away with your fingers. If it is heavy or wet, place the cluster in a labelled tray and allow the soil to dry slightly before cleaning further.

Do not force tightly packed wet soil out from between the corms. A little patience is cheaper than replacing damaged stock.

Check the surrounding soil for small corms that may have separated during lifting.

Step 05 / Cleaning Clean the corms carefully

The goal is to remove excess soil and plant debris without damaging the corms or introducing unnecessary moisture.

My preferred approach is to:

• Shake away loose, dry soil
• Use fingers to crumble away remaining soil
• Use a soft brush once the cluster is drier
• Remove old foliage and loose dead roots
• Keep every variety separated
• Inspect the centre of each cluster carefully

If the corms are heavily coated in clay and you choose to rinse them, do so gently and make sure they dry completely before storage.

I prefer avoiding unnecessary washing where the soil can be removed dry. Every additional wet stage extends the drying process and can increase the risk of rot if the corms are packed too soon.

Step 06 / Inspection Inspect for rot, disease and damage

Inspect each cluster before it enters your drying area.

Healthy material should feel firm and should not smell sour or rotten.

Set aside or discard corms showing:

• Soft, mushy areas
• Dark, wet rot
• Foul odour
• Extensive mould
• Severe damage
• Unusual swollen or distorted growth
• Suspicious lesions
• Tissue collapsing around the crown

Minor mechanical damage may dry and seal successfully, but badly damaged material is more vulnerable during storage.

Do not store questionable corms in the same bag as your best stock. One rotting corm can create a very intimate problem for everything touching it.

When unsure whether growth is simply an unusual mature cluster or evidence of disease, isolate it and investigate before keeping or replanting it.

Step 07 / Drying Dry the corms before storage

Freshly lifted corms must dry before being packed away.

At Femme Pétale, I move mine into a protected hoop area where they are sheltered from rain and can dry with good airflow.

Spread the corms in a single layer in shallow crates or on mesh trays.

Keep them:

• Out of rain
• Out of harsh direct sun
• Away from extreme heat
• Well ventilated
• Clearly labelled
• Separated by variety
• Protected from rodents

Turn or check them periodically so that damp soil is not trapped underneath.

The drying time will depend on:

• How wet the soil was
• Whether the corms were washed
• Humidity
• Air movement
• Cluster size
• Temperature

Do not store according to a rigid number of days. Store according to condition.

The corms should feel dry and firm, with no damp soil or moist plant tissue trapped around them.

Should ranunculus corms be divided before storage?

Large clusters may sometimes be separated, but they do not need to be forced apart immediately.

If the cluster does not separate easily, store it intact and reassess it before planting. Fresh corms can be brittle, and aggressive division may create unnecessary wounds.

If you divide:

• Work only with clean, dry material
• Use clean tools where needed
• Retain viable crown tissue with each section
• Avoid creating tiny, weak pieces simply to increase the number
• Allow fresh cuts to dry properly before storage
• Keep every section labelled

Bigger numbers do not automatically mean better planting material.

Step 08 / Packing Place the dry corms into breathable bags

Once completely dry, place the corms into breathable storage bags.

Suitable options include:

• Mesh bags
• Paper bags
• Breathable fabric bags
• Ventilated trays or boxes

Avoid sealing corms in airtight plastic. Any remaining moisture can become trapped and encourage mould or rot.

Do not overfill the bags. Air should still be able to move around the material.

Each bag should show:

• Variety
• Colour or series
• Year
• Quantity
• Bed or source, if relevant
• Any useful performance notes

Place a second label inside the bag if the outside label could rub off or become detached.

Step 09 / Storage Hang or store the bags in a cool, dry shed

I hang my labelled bags in the shed for storage.

The chosen area should be:

• Cool
• Dry
• Dark or protected from strong light
• Frost-free
• Well ventilated
• Protected from rodents
• Away from chemicals and excess moisture
• Away from a hot metal roof where temperatures fluctuate severely

Hanging the bags keeps them organised and allows airflow, but do not hang them against a damp wall.

If your shed becomes extremely hot during summer, identify its coolest stable section or consider another protected storage space.

Step 10 / Monitoring Check the corms during storage

Storage is not the moment to forget the bags exist until planting day.

Check them regularly for:

• Softness
• Rot
• Mould
• Moisture inside the bag
• Rodent or insect damage
• Missing labels
• Severe shrivelling
• Premature growth

Remove rotting material immediately.

If a bag feels damp, empty it, reassess the corms and allow them to dry again before repacking.

Some drying and shrivelling during dormancy is normal. The corms we plant are naturally dry and unpromising-looking. The concern is material that has become hollow, soft, mouldy or badly degraded.

Can ranunculus corms remain in the ground?

Ranunculus can sometimes remain in the ground where:

• The soil drains exceptionally well
• Summers are relatively dry
• The planting area will not receive regular irrigation
• The corms will not sit in warm, wet soil
• The bed will remain undisturbed
• Losing the stock would not be devastating

Leaving corms in the soil is much riskier where summers are hot and wet.

In Pretoria, our summer rainfall can leave dormant corms sitting in warm, saturated soil. This creates favourable conditions for rot, particularly in heavy or poorly drained beds.

I prefer lifting valuable or named varieties because it allows me to:

• Check their health
• Keep the varieties separated
• Count my stock
• Protect them from wet summer conditions
• Prepare and amend the bed
• Control when they begin their next season

If you decide to leave some in the ground, mark the location clearly and avoid irrigating the dormant area unnecessarily.

How to prepare stored corms for next season

Before your next planting season:

1. Take down the storage bags.
2. Confirm that every label is still readable.
3. Inspect the corms for damage or rot.
4. Sort viable stock by variety and size.
5. Record how many corms you have available.
6. Prepare clean trays or crates for presprouting.
7. Plan your beds and irrigation.
8. Soak and presprout according to your chosen growing method.
9. Plant into cool, free-draining conditions.
10. Keep the claws pointing downward when their orientation is clear.

Do not soak corms months before planting. Rehydration begins the waking process and should form part of your planting preparation, not your storage routine.

Common ranunculus storage mistakes

The ranunculus lifting and storage checklist

The end of one season holds the beginning of another

Lifting ranunculus is not simply clearing an old crop.

It is part of completing the growing cycle properly and protecting the material that may become next season’s flowers.

The beautiful part happens months earlier when the rows are filled with colour. This stage is quieter: yellow leaves, soil-filled crates, labels and bags hanging in the shed.

But this is where a grower learns to look beyond the flower.

Allow the plant to finish. Lift carefully. Dry thoroughly. Label absolutely everything.

Then, when autumn returns and those small, dry claws begin waking again, you will be very pleased that your past self did the unglamorous work properly.

If you are lifting ranunculus in your garden, tag Femme Pétale and tell me where in South Africa you are growing. I would love to know when your season finishes and whether you lift your corms or leave them in the ground.